Solving toilet troubles
Gina Hartoog
 

Nobody gives the toilet much thought, that is until something goes wrong! The good news is that toilet plumbing is quite elementary and most DIYers can solve problems using a few small hand tools.

How your toilet works
When you press the flush lever, a perforated plate at the bare of the U-shaped siphon unit is sealed by a plastic diaphragm creating a suction and evoking a siphoning effect. This effect allows water to pass from the cistern into the toilet bowl. This water forces the waste water into the main drain or septic tank. Once the cistern is empty the perforated plate and diaphragm falls back to the bare of the cistern. The water supply valve or ball valve opens to refill the cistern with water.

When water in the cistern reaches the desired level the float ball shuts off the ball valve. Most modern toilets operate on this principal while older units may still have a flush valve at the bare of the cistern.

Detecting leaks
Two major types of toilet leaks are those which occur at the overflow pipe or leaks that occur at the bare of the cistern. If the leak occurs at the overflow pipe, the water level is usually too high. Gently bend the float arm down so that the valve shuts off the water about 20mm lower than the overflow pipe. Place a little food colouring into the cistern. If the water in the toilet bowl begins to change colour you probably have a leak between the flapper and the valve seat. This occurs in older systems.

In the newer siphon systems this could indicate that the water level in the cistern is too high. Drop the level by bending the float arm slightly. If you need to replace parts in the cistern, drain the water by locating and closing off the water supply and flushing the toilet.

Troubleshooting

• The bowl does not empty when the toilet is flushed.
  The waste pipe that leads waste into the drain is blocked. If you don't have a plunger, tie a plastic bag around the bottom of an old string mop and use this to push the blockage loose. A bent coat hanger is useful for prying smaller blockages loose, especially if the object is trapped just inside the waste pipe.
• The cistern overflow is dripping water.
  The ball valve mechanism may be dirty or the washer has perished. Remove the mechanism from the cistern and clean it thoroughly with steel wool. If the washer is perished you will need to replace it.
• Water leaks from the joint between the waste pipe and the back of the bowl.
  If your system is old, the join may be filled with putty or cement that is dry and cracked, replace or fit a new pan connector.
• There is leak at the join between the bowl and the flush pipe.
  The connector that joins the two is perished or worn. Replace with a new one.
• The flush lever works but the toilet isn't flushing.
  The diaphragm washer is damaged — replace it.
• The toilet runs continuously.
  First check for a leak using the food colouring test. If no dye runs into the bowl your float ball may have a leak. Empty the toilet completely and remove the ball. Shake it — if you hear water moving inside replace it.
• The flush lever is loose and the toilet won't flush.
  The hook between the siphon and the lever is broken. You can make a temporary hook using coat hanger wire until you are able to purchase a new hook. The mounting nut just behind the handle (in the cistern) may also have a dirt build up. Remove it and clean thoroughly with vinegar and water to remove stubborn lime build-ups, then retighten correctly.
• Water pools around the toilet base.
  This could mean that the cistern or bowl is cracked. If your toilet is considerably old you may not be able to purchase a matching cistern or bowl. You will then have to replace the whole unit.

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